[Photos] The invisible farmers of Mumbai

In the 4.5-acre railway farm managed by the Chauhans, a labourer cleans radishes with water from a bavdi (well). The Chauhan's have in turn employed six agricultural labourers to sow, harvest and sell the produce here, each of whom gets paid Rs. 6,000-7,000 a month. The farm produce is sold to local residents of Chembur, Ghatkopar and Kurla. Photo by Geetanjali Gurlhosur.

In the 4.5-acre railway farm managed by the Chauhans, a labourer cleans radishes with water from a bavdi (well). The Chauhan’s have in turn employed six agricultural labourers to sow, harvest and sell the produce here, each of whom gets paid Rs. 6,000-7,000 a month. The farm produce is sold to local residents of Chembur, Ghatkopar and Kurla. Photo by Geetanjali Gurlhosur.

Aarey Milk Colony, which used to be one of the state’s biggest milk suppliers almost 70 years ago, is still home to over 30,000 buffaloes and many cattle-rearing migrant families from Gujarat, Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh. Of the 32 units of cattle sheds, four have been shut now, according to the locals. Over the past two decades, cattle rearers of the milk colony have gradually stopped selling buffalo milk to the Aarey Dairy because of the falling prices. While the Aarey Dairy today pays 25 rupees per litre, private wholesalers pay 30 to 32 rupees per litre and the retail price of buffalo milk is 60 to 66 rupees per litre in the city.

Other challenges that the dairy farmers face are bad roads and a shortage of electricity in Aarey, which disrupts their milk production and distribution. Aarey’s cattle rearers want to be recognised as farmers in the city. A dairy worker that the author spoke to, said that transporting buffaloes for dairy is easier than transporting cows because of the controversies surrounding cow slaughter.

A worker measures milk in a carton at a stable in Aarey Milk Colony. Cattle rearers of Aarey insist that they are also farmers because they supply milk to rural and urban populations. A lactating buffalo produces seven litres of milk in a day. Some dairy farmers sell milk to distributors, hotels and private dairies. Photo by Prateek Pamecha.
A worker measures milk in a carton at a stable in Aarey Milk Colony. Cattle rearers of Aarey insist that they are also farmers because they supply milk to rural and urban populations. A lactating buffalo produces seven litres of milk in a day. Some dairy farmers sell milk to distributors, hotels and private dairies. Photo by Prateek Pamecha.

Some of Mumbai’s women sanitation workers began small-scale farming for an additional source of income and nutrition during the COVID-19 lockdown. Since January 2021, the collective-based organisation Stree Mukti Sangathan (SMS) has been training the low-income, Dalit and Bahujan sanitation workers, in horticulture. With over 2,000 women, SMS runs self-help groups that work in urban waste management, employment opportunities and women’s rights. Since 1998, it has been running ‘Parisar Vikas’ programme, which addresses the problems of waste management, environment-friendly practices like composting and gardening in the Mumbai Metropolitan Region.

Women waste-managers of Mumbai, who go by the name ‘Parisar Bhaginis’, are training to grow vegetables and flowers in housing societies in the eastern suburbs of Mumbai. During the second wave of COVID19 in the country, 30 women employed in the sanitation sector in Mumbai started growing microgreens in their own homes too with the help of trainers. These women manage the city’s waste at a mere salary of about 6,500 rupees per month. Photo by Prateek Pamecha.
Women waste-managers of Mumbai, who go by the name ‘Parisar Bhaginis’, are training to grow vegetables and flowers in housing societies in the eastern suburb of Chembur in Mumbai. During the second wave of COVID-19 in the country, 30 women employed in the sanitation sector in Mumbai started growing microgreens in their own homes too with the help of trainers. These women manage the city’s waste at a mere salary of about 6,500 rupees per month. Photo by Prateek Pamecha.
Noor Jahan Syed and Sushila Ahire, employed with Stree Multi Sangathan (SMS), learn from a terrace garden of a housing society in the eastern suburb of Chembur. Syed points out that only those with enough space can grow their own food in the city; while others cannot. Photo by Prateek Pamecha.
Noor Jahan Syed and Sushila Ahire, employed with Stree Multi Sangathan (SMS), learn from a terrace garden of a housing society in the eastern suburb of Chembur. Syed points out that only those with enough space can grow their own food in the city; while others cannot. Photo by Prateek Pamecha.
A bavdi or well is the main source of irrigation on railway farms in Kurla. Farm labourers working here state that there is enough water in the wells all year to grow vegetables. Photo by Geetanjali Gurlhosur.
A bavdi or well is the main source of irrigation on railway farms in Kurla. Farm labourers working here state that there is enough water in the wells all year to grow vegetables. Photo by Geetanjali Gurlhosur.

Agricultural migrants working on a railway farm in Kurla, that also houses their makeshift residence adjacent to a railway track. The labourers earn up to 6,000-7000 rupees per month. Photo by Geetanjali Gurlhosur.

Agricultural migrants working on a railway farm in Kurla, that also houses their makeshift residence adjacent to a railway track. The labourers earn up to 6,000-7000 rupees per month. Photo by Geetanjali Gurlhosur.

A vegetable garden inside the premises of a housing society in the eastern suburbs of Mumbai, where sanitation worker Sushila Ahire learnt to practice organic farming amidst the COVID-19 lockdown in early 2021. Photo by Prateek Pamecha.
A vegetable garden inside the premises of a housing society in the eastern suburbs of Mumbai, where sanitation worker Sushila Ahire learnt to practice organic farming amidst the COVID-19 lockdown in early 2021. Photo by Prateek Pamecha.

This research was conducted as part of the fellowship with the People’s Resource Centre and its project ‘Urban Agriculture Case Studies in Indian Cities’.


 

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