Foraging for food is an activity that isn’t limited to rural spaces. In fact, urban foraging plays a crucial role in aiding food security for underserved communities. It is generally performed by middle-aged or older women who stroll around their neighbourhoods and other areas like lakes, roadsides and parks in search of food plants that are freely growing. In the case of Bengaluru, leafy greens – called ‘soppu’ in Kannada – are highly sought after.

Kalpana is a skilled cook who was raised in Anekal village near Hosur, where residents regularly pick edible greens that grow in common spaces. Now working in the city, like countless other women, she picks soppu to cook wholesome meals for her family. In fact, many families rely solely on soppu for nutrition, having limited access to vegetables and other crops. These modest greens are vital in preserving traditional knowledge as they are not only eaten, but also used as medicines and in rituals.

However, wild leafy greens are rapidly growing scant as the city urbanises. Moreover, areas where such nutritious greens grow, like parks are highly inaccessible. “They’re open from the morning, say around seven to nine, and then they’re locked,” explains Seema Mundoli, faculty at Azim Premji University in Bengaluru. “And again in the evening they are open from between say four to eight, so it gives very little time. Those are both times when women especially are very busy, taking care of household tasks.” Mundoli co-authored Chasing Soppu, a guidebook on the 53 of the city’s edible plants.

“They don’t allow us to forage near the lakes in Bangalore, neither does it grow now. Nobody says anything in the village. We are free to forage,” adds Kalpana.

Building awareness about urban foraging is important to drive urban planning that is more inclusive of greens and can support their growth and accessibility. Recently, there has been rising interest in urban foraging, coinciding with a pressing need for climate-resilient food systems.

A study in 2021 found that 76 flora species were habitually collected in Bengaluru, including herbs, tulsi, amaranthus, and ajwain leaves. This is vital information that must be considered by those who plan development projects in the city. The study noted that 97% of the foragers were women, and 81% of them had a lower social background.

Collective efforts and citizen projects are cropping up as well, spearheaded by people who harbour a curiosity for these overlooked urban plants, and a desire to conserve them. Sarjapura Curries is one such project in the form of a sustainable farm in the city that works with local communities to revive “forgotten ingredients” through kitchen gardens. They also work with gated apartments in the city and invite children and adults alike to learn how to grow food.

Despite their increased absence, Kalpana and other women continue to look for soppu, to support the nutritional security of their families.

This video was produced with the support of the ‘Video Reporting Fund 2024’ — a joint initiative of Mongabay-India and ALT EFF.

Banner image: Kalpana forages for soppu in Bengaluru city. Image by Ridah Zaman/Mongabay.