• Tsomgo lake, also known as Changu lake, is one of the most popular tourist destinations of Sikkim. The glacial lake at an altitude of 12,406 feet is considered sacred by the locals.
  • As the massive influx of tourists was causing rampant pollution in Sikkim’s wetlands, Sikkim government decided to form Lake Conservation Committees which involved the local community in protecting the lake. Tsomgo Pokhri Sanrakshan Samiti was the first notified lake conservation committee formed in 2008.
  • Tsomgo lake which shares its catchment area with Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary is a biodiversity-rich area known for species like red panda, Himalayan black bear, musk deer apart from being a stopover for migratory birds.

“Long time ago, there was no lake in this place. This used to be a huge valley where yak herders used to graze their animals. One day, an old woman appeared in the dream of one of the herders. She asked the man to leave the place the next morning with his friends as a huge lake will come up there. However, none of his fellow herders believed his dream. The next morning, he alone went away from the place. That evening, a giant lake was formed suddenly. Rest of the yak herders who had decided to stay back got drowned in the lake along with their yaks. Even today, it is said that on full moon nights, yaks can be seen in the middle of the lake.” Sangay Lama Sherpa narrates the folk tale about the genesis of Tsomgo Lake in Sikkim. Also known as Changu, the lake is located at an altitude of 12,406 feet, and is one of the biggest tourism draws in the Eastern Himalayan state of Sikkim receiving around 300,000 (3 lakh) tourists annually.

Sangay lives in Thegu, which, along with Changu and Chipsu, forms the troika of villages in the vicinity of Changu Lake. The 37-year-old is involved in the conservation of the lake in his role as the Office Secretary of the Tsomgo Pokhri Sanrakshan Samiti (TPSS), the Tsomgo Lake Conservation Committee, since its inception more than a decade ago.

“We have been listening to the folklore about the formation of the lake since our childhood. Our village elders used to say that it is our duty to protect the lake and keep it clean. Else, calamity might befall the villagers like it did with those yak herders in the story. This is something every villager believes and they are fully committed to keeping the lake clean,” says Sangay.

As the high altitude and harsh climate in the region make agriculture mostly unsuitable for the terrain, the local populace, mainly comprising of communities like Sherpas, Lepchas and Bhutias, almost entirely depend on the eco-tourism potential of the Tsomgo Lake for their livelihood. While tourism has generated revenue for the locals, it also contaminated Tsomgo Lake and its biodiversity-rich surrounding areas.

In 2008, with an aim to protect the lake from deteriorating, the TPSS was formed based on guidelines by the Department of Forest, Government of Sikkim, with support from organisations like WWF-India. Since then, TPSS has been the custodian of the lake. And Sangay, a core part of it. From being the bridge between the government and community to running back-end matters like accounts, he and the community that makes up TPSS is committed to keeping their sacred lake litter-free.

Tsomgo Lake or Changu lake is one of the most popular tourist destinations of Sikkim. The glacial lake is situated at an altitude of 12,406 feet. Photo by Sangay Lama Sherpa, map from Datawrapper.
Tsomgo Lake or Changu lake is one of the most popular tourist destinations of Sikkim. The glacial lake is situated at an altitude of 12,406 feet. Photo by Sangay Lama Sherpa, map from Datawrapper.

The birth of Pokhri Sanrakshan Samiti

Tsomgo Lake is situated in the East Sikkim district on the Gangtok-Nathu La Highway and is a part of the ancient southern Silk Route, a trade route connecting India with China. In the Bhutia language, Tso means ‘lake’ while Mgo means ‘head’ literally meaning the source of the lake.

The oval-shaped glacial lake, surrounded by steep mountains is covered with snow during winter. Apart from its breathtaking beauty, another reason the lake is so popular among tourists is its convenient location. It lies around 40 kilometres from Sikkim’s capital Gangtok.

Around 16 kms from the lake is another popular tourist destination Nathu La pass, which connects Sikkim with China’s Tibet Autonomous Region. Nathu La is one of the three open trading border posts between India and China. Sangay says, “This area is so popular among tourists because they can visit Changu Lake, Baba ki Mandir (a shrine built in the memory of Indian soldier Harbhajan Singh who was martyred near Nathu La in 1968) and Nathu La and return back to Gangtok on the same day.”

However, this convenience and popularity have brought along an influx of tourists which has had a detrimental effect on the lake. At one point, things were so bad that the Sikkim government had to intervene. On August 11, 2006, the Department Of Forest, Environment and Wildlife Management, Government of Sikkim came up with a gazetted notification laying down the guidelines for lake conservation in partnership with Gram Panchayats and Pokhri Sanrakshan Samitis.

The notification reads, “And whereas the lakes in the state have immense environment, ecological, cultural, spiritual and economic importance, they are important tourist destinations, also offering livelihood opportunities to the local communities. Whereas impacts of unplanned tourism, unregulated pastoralism and other unregulated human activities pose a serious threat to long term ecological security of these lakes and whereas, these lakes are located in remote high altitude areas and securing the long term future of these lakes is largely dependent on the active participation and involvement of the local community.”

Tourists at Tsomgo Lake, Sikkim. Photo from Tsomgo Pokhri Sanrakshan Samiti (TPSS).
Tourists at Tsomgo Lake, Sikkim. Photo from Tsomgo Pokhri Sanrakshan Samiti (TPSS).

After the notification, TPSS was the first lake conservation committee to be formed and notified by the forest department of Sikkim. Since then, a PSS has been formed for another wetland in the state – Khecheopalri Lake in West Sikkim.

Soon after, WWF-India came on board to provide technical support and help TPSS in framing and designing the work plan. Laktsheden, Landscape Co-ordinator, Khangchendzonga Landscape, WWF-India tells Mongabay-India, “In 2007, the lake was in a really bad shape. When we did a recce of the lake, we found out that all the kitchen wastes from the periphery of the lake was going directly in the lake. Apart from that, there was open defecation and garbage throwing happening around the lake.”

As per the guidelines, it was decided that the Ward Panchayat of the area will be the President of the PSS. Speaking about the functioning of the PSS, Rinzing Doma, the incumbent President of TPSS tells Mongabay-India, “There are around 180 households in the three villages in the vicinity of Changu lake. From every household, there are two members in the TPSS. We have also got the Divisional Forest Officer (Territorial), East Sikkim as the Chairman and Range Officer, Kyongnosla as the Member Secretary of TPSS. Other stakeholders like police, drivers association and shopkeepers association are our Executive Members. As per the guidelines, we collect Rs. 10 from every tourist as the Pokhri Sanrakshan Shulk or Lake Conservation Fees. The fees collected are credited with the revolving fund account of TPSS on a monthly basis. 50% of it is transferred to the State Environment Agency and the rest of it is used for the conservation of Tsomgo lake.”

At the time when TPSS was being formed, Sangay was looking for a job. “I did my graduation in Commerce from North Bengal University in 2005. I was then working on part-time basis in a bank in Gangtok when I was approached by the Panchayat of my area for the position of Office Secretary of TPSS. As I was interested in working for the conservation of the lake, I accepted the offer.” Sangay gets an honorarium for the work he does as the Office Secretary where his main role is to be the bridge between the government and the community, oversee awareness programmes, maintain accounts and co-ordinate with other stakeholders like police, cab drivers and shop keepers association.

Sangay Lama Sherpa, the Office Secretary of the Tsomgo Lake Conservation Committee, and the local community protect the high-altitude wetland and keep it litter-free. Their effort not only keeps the tourist destination clean but also protects the region's water source. Illustration by Pankaj Saikia for Mongabay.Sangay Lama Sherpa, the Office Secretary of the Tsomgo Lake Conservation Committee and the residents around Tsomgo Lake protect the high-altitude wetland and keep it litter-free. Their effort not only keeps the tourist destination clean but also safeguards the region’s water source. Illustration by Pankaj Saikia for Mongabay.

The story of transforming Changu

When high altitude wetlands like Tsomgo get polluted, it contaminates the very source of water for Sikkim. Usha Lachungpa, Retired Principal Chief Research Officer (wildlife) of Sikkim and an expert on the high altitude wetlands and biodiversity of Sikkim, explains, “High altitude wetlands are the water bank for the entire river system in Sikkim. These wetlands are the main storehouse of water and if they get polluted, the entire water source becomes contaminated.”

In Changu, while there are no lodging facilities for tourists as permanent structures are not allowed in the area, there is a shopping complex near the lake which caters to the tourists. The main demand here is for the fast food outlets which sell snacks like momos, rolls and noodles. As these shops were the main source of pollution, TPSS’s first job was to take care of them. Sangay says, “The shopping complex has 60-70 shops out of which many are fast food shops.

Prior to the formation of TPSS, the complex was located above the wetland with its trash directly flowing into the lake. So we shifted the complex to a location 100 m below Changu lake which stopped the disposal of sewage in the lake from these shops. Now, we also provide garbage bags to tourists in the car so that they don’t throw trash on the road.”

“We also stopped the sale of cup noodles which was the most littered item in the area. We then distributed water filters at the shops to cut down the use of packaged drinking water. TPSS organises awareness during occasions like World Environment Day and World Water Day. As some pollution was caused by the defecation of yaks which ride tourists around the lake, we discussed the issue with the yak riders association. Now they have hired two people to clean up yak’s poop throughout the day,” he adds.

The waste generated from the lake is collected and disposed daily at a place called 32 No. Martam dumping and recovery center. Chamba Sherpa, a shop-keeper who also doubles up as a Pokhri Rakshak (lake guard) for TPSS, tells Mongabay-India, “We clean the surroundings of the lake twice daily – in the morning and evening. The trash collected is then taken to the recovery center. There, the trash is segregated recovering the recyclable materials like PET bottles, TetraPak cartons, metals, etc. The bottles are then sent for recycling through scrap dealers.”

Volunteers during a drive to clean the Tsomgo Lake. TPSS was the first committee formed with the help of local communities after a push from the Sikkim government to curb wetland pollution. Photo from TPSS.
Volunteers during a drive to clean the Tsomgo Lake. TPSS was the first committee formed with the help of local communities after a push from the Sikkim government to curb wetland pollution. Photo from TPSS.

Even though TPSS has the power to collect fines from tourists caught littering as per the guidelines, Sangay says that they never collect fines. “We try to create awareness among the tourists rather than collecting fines. Nowadays, tourists are also much more aware than before though, among so many tourists, you always get the odd unruly bunch,” he adds.

Usha Lachungpa, while stating that TPSS has been doing an amazing job over the years in keeping the lake clean, also mentions that things are not always in their hands.

“We have no machinery to ensure that tourists don’t litter at all. In Changu, we don’t get quality tourists. TPSS is doing their best but they just get trapped sometimes in the deluge of tourists. And they can’t refuse tourists also because their economy is entirely dependent on tourism. Regulation of tourism is something which is the need of the hour here. These tourists often don’t come properly equipped for the climate here and when they get trapped in the snowfall, the army has to come and rescue them.”

Some time back, there were also issues about the pollution caused by the diesel-run vehicles used by the Indian Army. Because of the proximity to the China border, the area is a heavily militarized zone with a number of army camps stationed near Changu. Karma Bhutia, former Range Officer, Kyongnosla and Member-Secretary of TPSS says. “Around 2014-15, when I was posted here, there were issues with the army regarding pollution caused from their vehicles as well as the garbage dumped by them. When we brought the issue to their notice, they co-operated with us and the issue got sorted.”

A truck with garbage collected from Tsomgo Lake. Photo from TPSS.
A truck with garbage collected from Tsomgo Lake. Photo from TPSS.

The alpine biodiversity of Changu

While going to Changu from Gangtok, one has to cross the Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary first. Kyongnosla and Changu share the same catchment area and the place is known for its unique biodiversity. Kyongnosla is home to both red panda and blood pheasant – the State Animal and State Bird of Sikkim respectively. Animals like Tibetan fox, Himalayan black bear, serow, musk deer, Himalayan goral, etc. are also found there. Changu lake is also famous for its population of ruddy shelducks, also known as Brahminy ducks.

Regarding the biodiversity of the area, Lachungpa says, “In Kyongnosla, the presence of snow leopard has been detected via camera traps. Once a Himalayan takin was also spotted which probably came from Bhutan but then it disappeared mysteriously. Changu lake is also the stopover site for many migratory birds like tufted pochard, common pochard and seagulls along with resident birds like blue whistling thrush, redstart and forktail. The plant diversity of the area is also very rich. Changu lake also supports important micro wildlife like algae and plankton.”

She however warns that the wildlife of the area is facing a grave threat in the form of free-ranging feral dogs. “These dogs feed on the garbage around Changu and also from the kitchen in the military bases in the area. There have been incidents where a pack of dogs has hunted down rare animals like serow and red panda. Wild animals have now actually started avoiding the area because of the menace of feral dogs,” she says.

Meanwhile, the cycle of tourism and conservation continues at Changu, with the TPSS as the custodian of the lake. Their efforts of more than a decade have also been recognised by the Sikkim government who awarded them the ‘Best Clean Tourist Spot Award’ for Changu in 2013. In 2019, TPSS got the award for ‘Best Clean India Campaign’ from the Tourism Department, Govt. of Sikkim.

Summing up the work of TPSS, their former member-secretary Karma Bhutia says, “Since the community took over, the forest department has to give not more than 10% attention towards conservation of the lake. Their job is now mainly to monitor the work of TPSS and provide guidance if required. But overall, the functioning of TPSS has been very smooth and is a perfect example of the success of a community-driven model.”

Tsomgo or Changu Lake in Sikkim. Photo by Shiv's fotografia/Wikimedia Commons.
Tsomgo or Changu Lake in Sikkim. Photo by Shiv’s fotografia/Wikimedia Commons.

Read more: The monks who protect the Bhagajang wetland

 

Illustration by Pankaj Saikia, an illustrator/visual storyteller from Assam. He likes drawing stories that are inspired by his childhood and the folktales of his place. When he’s not drawing, he can often be found in a bamboo grove, hoping to sight a fox.

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